Dogtrainingminneapolismn

Just as we humans need good nutrition to function at our best, your canine companion also requires a balanced diet for optimal health and well being. With proper nourishment, your dog can grow and develop to his full potential, enabling him to perform both physical and mental activities with vigor and joy.
The diet you select for your dog may affect not only his health but also his behavior. A clear link exists between a well-balanced, biologically appropriate diet and improved behavior. The right balance of good-quality nutrition can decrease your dog’s levels of stress, helping him be calmer and more relaxed. By providing the proper nutrition his body needs, your dog will have less of a tendency to exhibit unwanted behaviors.
Of equal importance to the basic nutrients a dog needs is the quality of the source of those nutrients. Most animal nutritionists agree that a well-balanced, healthy canine diet should contain only high-quality ingredients, with no extras like food coloring, unspecified animal by-product or chemical preservatives.
Basic Nutritional Needs The following information provides the basics of nutrition for healthy adult dogs. Due to a dog’s age, breed, activity level, metabolism and health needs, it is important to talk with your veterinarian about determining the right diet for your dog. And remember, a higher quality food generally means a healthier dog and thus fewer visits to the veterinarian throughout the dog’s life.
Proteins Called “the building blocks for life,” proteins are part of every cell tissue and organ and are thus essential to a dog’s health. Protein helps boost your dog’s energy and regenerate his muscles.
When food proteins are digested, they are turned into smaller sub-components of the protein called amino acids. A “complete protein” provides all of the essential amino acids your dog needs to maintain good health. Complete proteins are animal based and include meat, poultry, fish and eggs. Whatever the protein source in your dog’s food, the best quality food uses one primary source of protein, for example, “chicken” not “poultry,” “beef” not “meat.”
An incomplete protein is low in one or more essential amino acids. Incomplete proteins are found in vegetables, cereals and soy. Because these proteins are not  “complete,” your dog’s body is being deprived of essential amino acids he needs for good health. Your dog is an opportunistic carnivore (meaning he prefers to eat meat but will eat anything to survive) and requires animal-based protein to thrive, unless your veterinarian recommends otherwise.
Carbohydrates Carbohydrates, a general term for fibers and starches, provide the fuel that keeps your dog on the go. Carbohydrates (“carbs”) turn into glucose, a pure form of energy vital to your dog’s energy metabolism. As in humans, a dog’s body can use glucose immediately or store it in the liver and muscles for when it is needed. Also like humans, too many carbs can turn into fat.
There is much debate among animal nutritionists with regard to the canine’s need for carbohydrates. Canines in the wild eat a very small percentage of carbs. Most domesticated dogs today are fed manufactured foods, which are convenient and inexpensive. However, some manufactured dog foods contain ingredients for energy that are cheaper than meat—usually corn or other grains. Thus, today’s dogs get far more carbs than their wild ancestors did.
While carbs add bulk, variety and taste to the canine diet, some dogs do not tolerate a higher amount of carbs from grains, and can develop allergies or display signs of protein deficiency. The source of the carbohydrates and the way in which they are prepared are important factors in how well the dog’s system digests and utilizes the food. Bear in mind, though, some dogs do just fine with grains while others thrive only on a no- or low-grain diet.
Fiber While not considered a nutrient, fiber for dogs is necessary to aid digestion. Too much fiber can cause loose stools or diarrhea, while too little can lead to constipation or dry hard stools. Fiber is derived from plants (fruits and vegetables) and grains prepared in a certain way (bran). In general, high-fiber foods are not good for dogs with high energy requirements, such as puppies and working dogs, as too much fiber may impede food absorption and not provide the correct nutrient balance needed to sustain their activity and growth.
Fats Fats provide your pet with more than twice the energy of proteins or carbohydrates. Derived from both animal fats and vegetable oils, fats are essential to cell membrane structure, for the production of some hormones and for the absorption and utilization of some vitamins. Fats promote healthy skin and coat and provide the body with insulation and protection for internal organs. Finally—and most importantly, from a dog’s point of view—fats make food taste great.
Fats are composed of smaller units called fatty acids which contribute to a dog’s health in different ways. A group of fats called “essential fatty acids” must be provided in the diet because they cannot be synthesized by a dog in sufficient amounts. These include specific types of omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids, which are sometimes given as supplements to help prevent inflammation, arthritis and dry skin.
Vitamins and minerals Vitamins and minerals are nutrients that every living body requires for normal growth and development. Minerals and most vitamins cannot be synthesized in the body and, therefore, must be provided in a dog’s diet. Dogs need a precise balance of vitamins and minerals for optimal health.
Vitamins are organic substances found in plant and animal sources. Minerals are inorganic elements that come from the earth. Animals acquire all the vitamins and minerals they need from the foods they eat, which is why eating a complete and balanced diet is essential for good health. Talk to your veterinarian about whether your dog needs a vitamin or mineral supplement for preventive health or to improve his current condition. In addition, consider rotating the types of foods you feed your dog, allowing him to ingest a wider variety of different nutrients from a range of foods.
Nutrition’s Effects on Behavior Your pet’s behavior can be greatly affected by the kind of nutrition he gets. Many animal nutritionists agree that an imbalance in a dog’s behavior can sometimes be linked to an imbalance in his diet. Just as with humans, a poor diet can result in poor health, which can lead to poor behaviors.
The following are some diet-related unwanted behaviors or conditions our dog behavioral therapists have observed over the years while working with dogs of all breeds and ages:

 

In addition to making him clean and sweet-smelling, grooming is a natural task that dogs perform for each other, just as their wild ancestors have done! When you take time to groom your dog, you increase his respect for you as his leader and strengthen your mutual bond. Please note that every dog has different needs when it comes to grooming; when in doubt, ask your groomer or veterinarian for advice or assistance.

Brushing

Supplies: Choose a brush well-suited to your dog’s type of coat; for example, a rake may work best for a long-haired dog, while bristle brushes are a better choice for your short-coat canine. Ask your groomer for recommendations.

Frequency: Daily for long-haired dogs (to avoid mats); weekly for short-coated dogs.

How to: Always brush in the direction of the hair growth, working in sections. For a long-coated dog, mist his coat with water as you brush to avoid breaking the hairs, which can create matting. Get your dog used to brushing by starting him at an early age. Be consistent and make the experience pleasurable. If your dog is apprehensive about trusting your hands and the brush, go slowly and gently. Keep some treats in your non-brush hand to distract him. Stop brushing when he seems more concerned with the brush than the treats, and stop the treats whenever he looks at the brush.

Notes: Brushing removes foreign objects and parasites, controls your dog’s shedding, stimulates blood flow, and distributes the skin’s natural oils, promoting a healthy shine. It also prevents mats in long-haired dogs. If left intact, a hair mat will tighten until your dog’s skin is pulled and his movement inhibited, resulting in severe pain and infection. NEVER use scissors to cut matted fur—you could seriously injure your dog! Rather, use electric clippers or special brushes, or take your dog to a professional groomer.

Bathing

Supplies: Use a dog shampoo and conditioner that will be best for your dog’s hair type; for example, there are hypoallergenic shampoos for dogs with allergies, or try oatmeal shampoo if your dog has itchy, dry skin.

Frequency: Depending on your dog’s coat, anywhere from weekly to monthly.

How to: Before a bath, brush your dog well and remove any hair mats. Never bathe a matted dog as this will make the mats worse. Wet him down thoroughly, avoiding his ears, eyes and face. Massage the shampoo into his skin, making note of any lumps, lesions, etc. Rinse his coat completely, then use a wet washcloth to gently wipe his face and the insides of his ears. Towel-dry him all over, including between his toes and inside his ears. Completely dry a long-haired dog to prevent matting.

Nail Trimming

Supplies: Choose from among several types of nail trimmers; some are more appropriate for very small dogs. Use styptic powder (or corn starch) to stop bleeding from accidental clips into the nail “quick,” and have a file ready to remove sharp edges.

Frequency: Weekly to monthly, depending on your dog’s activity level and needs.

How to: Slow, slow, slow! Let your dog get used to the smell and sound of the nail clippers and to having his feet held. At first, just touch the clippers to your dog’s nail to see how he reacts. Trim the smallest possible amount of nail, praising his calmness. You may need to “distract” him by holding a treat tightly in your hand while you clip, then reward him with the treat when you are done. For some dogs, asking a friend or family member to hold the dog or distract him may also be beneficial. If you feel uncomfortable at all, stop and take your dog to a professional. Your dog may feed off your nervous energy.

Notes: Always make very small clips so as not to cut the nail’s “quick” (area where the nail’s blood supply begins), which is difficult to see on dark nails. If you are uncertain of where to clip, check with your veterinarian or groomer. Overgrown nails can split or curl into a dog’s paw pad, causing lameness, pain and possible infection. Also trim your dog’s dewclaw nails.

Tooth Brushing

Supplies: Toothbrush and toothpaste made specifically for dogs.

Frequency: Daily to weekly.

How to: Again, proceed slowly. First, offer a little doggy toothpaste on your dog’s toothbrush and place it in his mouth. If he likes the taste, you’re ready for the next step. If he doesn’t, try another brand. Next, apply toothpaste on your fingers and explore the inside of his mouth, without actually brushing. Then start brushing a few teeth at a time until you are able to apply the paste to all of his teeth—the enzymes in the toothpaste will do a lot of the scrubbing for you.

Notes: Tooth brushing curbs foul doggie breath, stimulates blood flow to the gums, removes plaque and tartar, and prevents gum disease.

Cleaning Ears and Other Delicate Skin

Supplies: Cotton balls; water or ear wash (if recommended by your veterinarian).

Frequency: Weekly to monthly, or as recommended by your veterinarian or groomer.

How to: Warm the liquid ear wash or water, then gently wipe inside the ear with a wetted cotton ball (it’s fine if your dog shakes his head—this helps to loosen the ear wax), followed by a quick swipe with a dry cotton ball. Depending on your dog’s needs, you may want to simply use a dry cotton ball to clear away earwax and dirt; ask your veterinarian or groomer about what is best for your dog.

Notes: If left unclean, a dog’s floppy ears (particularly long ears) provide a place for earwax to build up and for infections from bacteria, fungus or yeast to grow. Ear infections are very bothersome to your dog (it itches and/or hurts) and you (it smells really bad!). Certain breeds with areas of delicate skin, such as folds on the face, will also require a regular gentle cleaning.

Helping Your Dog Become Comfortable with Grooming Sessions

Go slow. Don’t try to do all grooming in one session or by yourself. If your dog is uncomfortable, just do one task at a time or ask for help from a trusted professional.

Don’t make a big deal out of a grooming session. Maintain a light and playful attitude. Overly reassuring your dog during the process may make him think there is reason for him to become anxious.

Introduce your dog to running water in the sink, tub or shower where you plan to bath him.

If you have a small dog, you can create a grooming table by laying a towel on top of your washer/dryer or ironing board and then placing your dog on the sturdy surface.

During quiet times when your dog is relaxed and happy, you can help him become comfortable with being handled for grooming. Gently pat your dog on different areas of his body. Touch around his eyes and ears, move his legs, hold his feet and wiggle your fingers between his toes, lift his lips and touch his teeth, etc. Take your time with this kind of touch, and do it often so that it becomes an agreeable experience for your dog.